Bottom Line
The MSR Advance Pro 2 is a specialized, high-performance tent built for alpine and winter mountaineering. Its single-wall design combines ultralight weight (3 lbs 2 oz packed) with durability, making it ideal for fast-and-light summit pushes or technical expeditions. The tent sets up quickly with a compact, freestanding design that’s manageable on narrow ledges or confined spaces.
With Easton Syclone poles and a robust 20D ripstop nylon fabric, it handles heavy winds and snowfall exceptionally well.
However, as a single-wall tent, it sacrifices breathability, leading to some condensation buildup in damp conditions. Its limited interior space feels very snug for two people with gear. Despite its minimal footprint, the Advance Pro 2 excels where weight, weather protection, and packability are paramount. For experienced climbers prioritizing summit-focused efficiency over comfort, this tent has reliable performance in harsh alpine environments.
Explore more top-performing models in our guide to the best four-season tents.
How We Tested
While we haven’t taken the MSR Advance Pro 2 to the Himalayas just yet, we thoroughly tested it in deep-winter conditions in Colorado’s mountains. Our evaluation focused primarily on snow-covered terrain below treeline, where we assessed its performance in cold, windy, and challenging environments. To gauge its versatility, we also pitched the tent in warmer conditions on dirt, allowing us to better understand its setup process, breathability, and overall comfort across a range of climates.
Quick Specs
MSR Advance Pro 2
Best Budget Alternative Tent
CleverHiker Rating: 4.2.5.0
Price: $800
Weight: 3 lb. 3 oz.
Dimensions (LxWxH): 82 X 42 X 44 in
Square Footage: 24 sf
Pros
- Ultralight
- Quick and easy setup
- Small pack size
- Sturdy
- Storm worthy
Cons
- No vestibule
- Condensation issues
- No internal stash pockets
Comfort
The MSR Advance Pro 2 walks the line between minimalism and livability, but let’s be honest—it’s best as a one-person tent. While technically designed for two, our winter testing in Colorado’s Sawatch mountains confirmed that squeezing two people (plus gear) inside is tight, to say the least. The tent’s steep walls and smart pole geometry help maximize space, but even then, it’s snug. When we showed it to friends, the phrase “like sleeping in a coffin” came up more than once—always said with a mix of laughter and mild truth.
There is also no internal storage, so you’ll need to keep gear super organized. The lack of a vestibule makes managing equipment in bad weather a hassle. Ventilation is better than in older versions, but moisture buildup is still noticeable, especially in warmer conditions. For solo mountaineers who prioritize lightweight protection over roomy comfort, the Advance Pro 2 is a solid, high-performance option.
Weight & Packed Size
This tent excels in both weight and packability, making it a go-to option for alpine missions. With a packed weight of just 3 pounds 8 ounces and a minimum trail weight of 2 pounds 14 ounces, this tent firmly places itself in the ultralight category for four-season shelters.
During our tests in the Colorado mountains, its compact design was a standout feature—it stows easily into a small alpine pack without hogging valuable space. The lightweight design is achieved through high-performance materials like a 20D ripstop nylon canopy and Easton Syclone poles, which balance strength and minimal weight.
For climbers and mountaineers focused on minimizing weight and maximizing pack space, the Advance Pro 2 is a good choice for streamlined alpine adventures.
Weather Resistance
The Advance Pro 2 is built to handle the extreme demands of alpine environments, excelling in high winds and snow. While testing it, we were seriously impressed by how it handled gusty conditions—this thing feels rock-solid even when the weather turns nasty. The straightforward, sturdy design gives you confidence in exposed, high-altitude spots.
While the tent’s floor effectively prevents leaks, its walls are less waterproof than typical three-season tents. This makes the Advance Pro 2 ideal for below-freezing conditions, where precipitation is more likely to come as snow rather than rain. It can handle moderate rainstorms but isn’t designed for extended wet weather. This tent is a tough, reliable option for climbers and mountaineers braving wind and snow.
Ease of Setup
The setup for this alpine tent is straightforward.. Its single-wall design eliminates the need for attaching an inner tent and fly—everything is integrated. The hubbed poles slide into sleeves at the back and clip in at the front, minimizing complexity. Stake out the corners, insert the poles, and you’re ready to go. However, in high winds, it’s wise to secure the tent with gear or stakes beforehand to prevent it from taking off.
The tent includes pre-attached guy lines that are easy to set up, though you’ll need extra stakes to use them all. Additionally, there’s a reinforced guy-out point on the rear of the tent that doesn’t come with a guy line, which might require some improvisation.
The only real challenge is securing the poles to the front corners. It takes a surprising amount of strength, enough to make you question if the poles are the correct set. After a bit of effort—and some hesitation—we managed to get everything secured without breaking anything.
Durability
MSR designed the Advance Pro 2 to endure the harsh conditions of high-alpine camping, and it largely delivers on that promise. The 20D ripstop nylon sidewalls and 30D floor strike an impressive balance between being lightweight and feeling robust and durable, capable of handling tough mountain environments.
A unique feature of this tent is the use of Easton Syclone poles, which are marketed as lighter, more flexible, and better equipped to handle high winds compared to traditional poles. However, information on their composition and manufacturing process remains limited. Most other four-season tents in this category rely on industry-standard DAC aluminum poles, which are known for their reliability.
While our testing revealed no issues with the Syclone poles, reports of early delamination from other users raise some concerns about consistency in quality. For peace of mind, inspecting the poles thoroughly upon purchase is a wise step.
Versatility
The Advance Pro 2 is a specialized tent for high-altitude and alpine environments, but its focus on excelling in these conditions limits its overall versatility. Designed as a lightweight, single-wall shelter, it thrives in sub-freezing conditions where snow is the primary concern. The steep walls and small footprint make it ideal for setting up on ledges or tight spaces, and its streamlined design is a standout for fast-and-light alpine missions.
However, outside of its intended environment, the tent’s limitations become apparent. The sidewalls are less waterproof than typical three-season tents, making it less suited for rainy or humid conditions. Ventilation is minimal, leading to significant condensation buildup in milder climates. Additionally, the compact interior, while manageable for one person, feels cramped for two, especially in non-emergency situations.
Ultimately, the Advance Pro 2 is a niche tent that shines in alpine extremes but struggles to adapt to more general-purpose use.
Should You Buy the MSR Advance Pro 2?
This tent is a top choice for mountaineers, climbers, and adventurers tackling alpine environments where weight savings, stability, and a small footprint are critical. Its durable materials, compact design, and ability to handle harsh wind and snow make it ideal for high-altitude missions or extreme conditions. However, it’s not a versatile tent for general outdoor use, as its single-wall construction, minimal ventilation, and less waterproof walls limit its performance in wet or humid climates.
The Advance Pro 2 delivers impressive performance and durability for those needing a specialized tent for alpine pursuits. However, the tent’s narrow focus means it’s best for users who frequently embark on technical climbs or expeditions. While not inexpensive, it offers decent value for its intended purpose, providing a reliable, lightweight shelter for extreme conditions. For casual camping or backpacking, more versatile options are likely a better pick.
What Other Four-Season Tents Should You Consider?
If you’re considering the MSR Advance Pro 2, here are a few other four-season tents worth exploring. If you want more options, check out our full four-season tent gear guide.
Hyperlite Mountain Gear Ultamid 2 Review: An ultralight classic, the Ultamid 2 offers exceptional weight savings while maintaining durability and weather resistance. Unlike the Advance Pro 2, it’s a pyramid-style shelter that provides more interior space and versatility for multiple seasons. However, it requires trekking poles or a separate pole system for setup and lacks the same level of stormworthiness in extreme alpine conditions.
Samaya 2.0 Review: This ultralight, fully waterproof tent is ideal for fast-and-light alpine ascents. It rivals the Advance Pro 2 in weight and stormworthiness but features high-tech materials that provide better breathability while being 100% waterproof. It’s not cheap, but it’s a game-changer for serious mountaineers.
NEMO Kunai 2 Review: A more versatile option, the Kunai 2 blends lightweight design with durability. It’s slightly heavier but offers dual-wall construction for better ventilation and reduced condensation, making it a great choice for mixed-season adventures.